1. Coupons and Discounts
There are numerous websites out there that are committed to keeping track of special coupons. On any given day you should be able to find at least one coupon or discount that can be used to purchase a digital camera. Observe the sites for a week or so to get an idea of the kind of deals and coupons that come about. When you notice one that applies to the digital camera you want (or a similar model), grab it !!!
One of the famous :: http://bensbargains.net/
2. Employee Discounts
You may be able to get the same discount that your company does if you work for a company that buys computers or electronic appliances on a regular basis. Talk or be friend to the person in charge of purchasing the company’s computers (usually purchasing officer) and ask if he or she can get some discount from the vendor.
3. Buy Online
“Buy Online Get 5% Discount”, we often see that message when visit some online store. But, very carefull, they do give you 5% off on other hand the handling and shipping fee is expensive. So, try find an online store with free shipping and give some discount for buying online. Many new online store give discount. (An attractive way to promote their site).
4. Close-out Sales, Liquidation
Keep your eyes peeled for close-out, fire, and liquidation sales. Camera technology is changing at a fast pace, many lines are discontinued to make room for newer inventory with the latest technology. Many of these close-out sales will offer great laptops at reduced prices.
5.Don’t Forget To Haggle
If you’re buying a camera from your local dealer, don’t always take the sticker price as gospel. Ask for a special deal, you may be pleasantly surprised at the savings. This works best with independent dealers who can offer you a special deal. If you’re a regular customer, the better the deal you should demand!
Feel free to share some of your tips, write comment…
My gosh! This digital technology has moved fast. I can remember talking to an expert photographer in Boseman, Montana, and he said “get yourself a digital camera, any digital camera you can find, some version of PhotoShop and begin to make pictures.” That was five years ago and I haven’t really looked back.
My next introduction to this exciting medium came while attending a photography workshop on Mt. Rainier,Washington. That was four September’s ago. I had a little 2MP (megapixel) point-and-shoot camera in my pocket, but was using my film camera for the important photographs. Several others were using the current DSLR (digital single lens reflex) cameras of that time. At the time, I still thought those cameras were only for photojournalists and commercial photographers. Then, while looking at each others photographs, one fellow from Oregon showed us his 11×14 inch prints and I was amazed at the quality. He was using a 3MP DSLR camera. I came home and within days had purchased my first DSLR camera.
The other day I was asked a question on the basics of making better pictures with a digital camera. If you are using a fully automated camera these are my suggestions for setting its menu or programs mode.
Turn off Auto ISO. Select the lowest or no higher than 200.
Turn off the Red Eye Reduction. Red Eye Reduction sometimes allows camera shake as the flash cycles thru several flashes before releasing the shutter.
Image Quality – select the highest available. Some may say this will reduce the number of pictures one can take on a memory card, but with today’s value-priced memory cards one should have 512MB or more.
Sharpness: choose Auto, Off, or Normal. The Photo Labs will sharpen your image just fine. If you are a PhotoShop user, learn how to sharpen the image yourself!
Functions: Gosh these cameras have lots of stuff that seems neat, but can be done by your Lab or in PhotoShop – probably better – like B&W (black and white) or Sepia tone. My preference is to select colour and make B&W later rather than have no future choices.
If you are using your camera in program mode get out your manual and learn about Exposure Compensation. Most digital cameras on the market offer some means to control exposure, even the fully automatic ones. Some magazine articles say “just shoot and fix it in PhotoShop,” however, how much time do you want to spend trying to fix those poor images? The saying is “garbage in, garbage out”.
The exposure as captured by a camera is decided by measuring the brightness of a subject.
What if we are photographing friends standing in the snow or a bright reflecting lake with the light behind them? Unfortunately, they will be under exposed because the camera will read the light around them.
Since the introduction of photography, photographers have been doing something called “bracketing”. That is what I suggest you try.
Under Expose and Over Expose – Using your camera’s exposure compensation function. Every camera model does this in a different way so I won’t fill up this article trying to explain.
My last suggestion; and you will have to do this to learn exposure compensation, and that is, “Read your camera’s instruction manual.”
These are my suggestions to get you started making better pictures with your digital camera. I’ll have more next week.
About The Author
John Enman owns and operates Enman’s Camera at 423 Tranquille Road in Kamloops. Enman’s Camera sells new and used photographic equipment and offer professional wedding photography. Check out www.enmanscamera.com or call John at (250) 376-4715 for all your camera equipment needs.
By Peter Lewis, Fortune senior editor
Ah, the memories that a photo album can evoke. Here I am with my first digital camera, the Apple QuickTake 100, along with a serial cable and the Macintosh portable I had lugged up a 12,000-foot mountain, because that was the only way to view the digital snapshots I was taking. See the look on my face? Today I can’t tell whether my expression was one of rapture at discovering the joys of filmless photography or oxygen deprivation. The QuickTake had a resolution of about 300,000 pixels and cost $750.
Now here I am with the new Canon EOS Digital Rebel XTi digital single-lens reflex (DSLR) camera I carried up the same mountain recently. It has an effective resolution of over ten million pixels and costs $799 (body only), or $899 with a high-quality 18-55mm zoom lens. Pictures can be snapped at three frames per second at full resolution, up to 27 shots in burst mode, and viewed on the camera’s exceptionally bright built-in 2.5-inch LCD display.
Now see the look on my face? Definitely rapture. The Canon is, quite simply, the best digital camera I’ve seen for under $1,000.
But that’s partly because Nikon’s new 10.2-megapixel D80, another delightful DSLR camera I’ve been testing, misses the $1,000 cutoff, unless you count the price of the camera body alone, without a lens. With an 18-135mm zoom lens, The D80 fetches $1,300. And it’s also partly because Sony’s impressive new ten-megapixel Alpha DSLR-A100K camera, $1,000 including an 18-70mm zoom lens, didn’t get to me in time for a review.
The arrival of so many high-quality ten-megapixel digital SLR cameras this summer represents a milestone in photo gear. Megapixels are not a reliable measure of a camera’s overall quality, because so many other factors – the size of the pixels, the quality of the lens, the color accuracy of the imager, and so on – contribute to the picture that the camera captures. For most users, the salient point is that a ten-megapixel image can be printed at much bigger sizes than, say, a shot taken with a 4MP camera. More practically, a 10MP image gives the photographer more ability to crop a shot, creating a big print from a smaller segment of the overall picture. In general, though, a double-digit megapixel camera is a step closer to that threshold where digital cameras pass 35mm film cameras in quality.
Designed for serious amateur photographers but also friendly to the casual point-and-shooter, the Canon Rebel XTi also features a built-in cleaning system that reduces the chance that dust inside the camera will spoil a shot, a bugaboo that plagues most other cameras in its class. No matter how careful one is when changing lenses, dust can enter the camera body to ruin subsequent shots. The XTi literally shakes any dust off the sensor when the camera is turned on or off, using ultrasonic vibrations. The motes are then immobilized on a sticky trap. Also, the camera can “map” stubborn dust particles on the sensor and then erase them from images via software.
The Nikon D80, in turn, borrows several features from Nikon’s professional-level DSLR cameras, including the image processor from the $4,000 Nikon D2X and the automatic focusing system and 2.5-inch LCD of the upscale D200. One thing the D80 inherits from smaller and cheaper Nikons, however, is an SD (secure digital) memory-card system. Most DSLR cameras today use the larger CF (compact flash) cards, and a ten-megapixel camera demands a high-capacity storage system. (I tested the Canon with Kingston’s new eight-gigabyte 133X-speed Ultimate CF card, an excellent performer at $449.) SD cards have smaller capacities than CF (no 8GB SD cards are available today), but the D80 is also compatible with next-generation SDHC cards, which promise to raise capacity to 32 gigabytes someday.
Although both the Canon Rebel XTi (usa.canon.com) and the Nikon D80 (nikonusa.com) are superb cameras, I did have two quibbles. The Canon has a plastic body that feels less than rugged. While the D80 has Nikon’s typically solid fit and finish, the SD card system is, for now, constraining for a high-quality camera. Even so, both are excellent performers that will fill your photo albums with mountains of happy memories.
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